![]() It's your choice of course but you are not creating more power with this adjustment. To me this decreases driver control of the power, and can cause you to over fuel until the boost matches the fuel. In my opinion you're just lowering the boost at which you deliver full fuel so it effectively shortens the pedal travel needed. It lets it move further under lower boost, but not further overall. The star wheel adjustment weakens the spring tension holding up the diaphragm. Note: A lot of other tuning articles talk about adjusting the star wheel under the diaphragm, and even the spacer under that. Adjust more or less aggressively based on results. The path up to full load is really where this applies. You may see a little more egt at Full load but it should be largely unaffected. Be careful of EGT spikes and black smoke at just below full load. You're looking for increased response in boost. (woo paint marker) Now turn the diaphragm 90-120 degrees clockwise. This spins freely so don't do that! At least not until you have marked its original position. Once removed you will see a metal disk with a nut in the middle surrounded by black rubber. Big honk'n screw driver for this so that you don't strip them out. Remove the four flat head screws that hold on the diaphragm cover on the very top of your injection pump. This will have a big affect on acceleration. Think of this as the adjustment that determines how quickly and drastically your injection pump reacts to increased boost. Once satisfied you have now adjusted the max power of your engine. If you have no smoke and lower EGT's dial up the adjustment a bit, and retest. example: while hard accelerating to 70mph I see a max of about 1200F (649C) no smoke. If at full load your get black smoke, back off you adjustment. Ignore smoke at pretty much anything other than full load. This was a big adjustment on my truck taking the idle from 2500rpm back to 750-800 Test drive now. Using some penetrating lube will make this much easier. Loosen this nut and rotate the idle screw stop back. The idle adjustment is on the left side (from facing the pump) just under the diaphragm housing. It will very likely idle high, and must be adjusted. To be clear, do NOT use your 13mm socket to tighten it as it will screw up your adjustment. Being careful not to allow any further adjustment (I used a drop of superglue like a weak locktite) re-insert the adjuster into the injection pump using the flat head to tighten. Once that's done adjust the screw 1-2 full turns deeper into the lock nut (clockwise). You're modifying your engine so just get the collar off however works for you. I did the in 5 minutes with a screw driver to pry it open and pliers with the screw driver to peel it off. Mark the current position of the 13mm lock nut to the screw. A couple table spoons of fuel may drop out so catch them or, y'know, don't. Use a deepwell 13mm socket and remove the entire thing. ![]() This may have some rubbish plastic bits on it that you can break off. The Main fuel adjuster is a flat head screw with a locking nut and a collar on the back of the pump. All the other adjustments only refine what we are doing here. We do this first as this is the adjustment that affects all the fueling and will have the most major affect on your engine. And here is where I think a lot of the tutorials go awry. Marking the threaded portion of the rod with original and desired depth will make keeping track of the adjustment easier. Re-thread the female portion of the rod and adjust as above. Do this carefully and file the edge to remove burs. In this case remove the female portion of the rod completely then use a small cutting tool (I recommend a dremmel) to remove 5mm or so of the male threaded portion of the adjustment rod. Sadly it is likely to be just a bit more complex as you may not have enough play in the rod to make the full 4-5 turns. Replace the retainer clip and you're done. then using pliers and some strength manually extend the rod back to return it to the valve. ![]() You may well have enough room to make several turns. Simply break the lock nut free on the rod, remove the retainer clip holding the rod to the valve on the hot side of the turbo, slide it off and then turning it to shorten the rod. The wastegate has a threaded adjustable rod. To do this we're going to adjust the turbo wastegate. Once you have your gauges on it's time to add a little more air.
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